This is the Thursday, Apr. 17 edition of Food Crawl, the Star’s weekly food newsletter.Sign up to get it in your inbox every week.
Even Canada’s Wonderland can’t build a roller coaster to match the wild plunges global economies have taken in recent weeks. While this newsletter usually covers budget bites, this week I’m putting a bigger emphasis on places where your dollar stretches further than the mall food court. I’m talking about an actual full meal, not just a bag of samosas or a subway station patty.Thankfully, this city’s packed with independent restaurants serving up solid food at solid prices. Here are four places that deliver serious bang for your buck.
‘s $15 prix fixe lunch
Another Land Coffee and More’s $15 prix fixe lunch.
Karon Liu/pc28StarPart of my frugal ways include maxing out the two-hour transfer window on a single Presto fare, hopping on and off the subway to run errands and grab food without paying extra. I often transfer at Yonge and Sheppard, though the intersection is dominated by international chains. Just a short walk south, though, is Another Land Coffee and More, an indie cafe (that also serves booze) run by the couple who once owned theChinese restaurant Woodhouse BBQ.
You’ll find the usual espresso drinks as well as matcha lattes, teas, plus Bellwoods beer and croissant sandwiches. But stay a while to take advantage of the weekday prix fixe lunchthat’s always $15, served from 11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The menu changes daily, but it usually consists of a salad, soup and a main. On one day it’s mapo tofu on rice with a bowl of clam and wintermelon soup and a tofu skin salad. On my visit it was mixed greens with tomatoes, pumpkin seeds and golden raisins; a bowl of potato soup with dollops of creme fraiche; and a plate of rigatonibolognese. The soup was light, but thickened with a tangy zip when swirled with the creme fraiche, while the pasta is al dente with a good ratio of sauce and tender ground beef. The matcha latte with just a bit of syrup is worth adding to the meal.It’s a relaxing lunch in a quaint cafe just off the chaotic intersection, and the restaurant doesn’t ask for tips, to boot.
Where to get it:Another Land Coffee and More is at 4708 Yonge St. at Johnston Avenue. Washrooms are down a flight of stairs. It is open every day 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. It is on Uber Eats.
Kathy’s Grill’s Hot Hamburger and Fries
Kathy’s Grill’s Hot Hamburger and Fries.
Karon Liu/pc28StarKathy’s may be a newcomer among the city’s Greek-run burger and souvlaki spots — it opened in 2016 — but it’s already a neighbourhood staple. The menu is full of low-key gems: $5 homemade burgers, $7.25 chicken souvlaki on a bun, and, if you’re feeling fancy, a steak dinner for $16.75. Standouts include golden-fried fish and chips at a frankly bonkers $7.85, and a full chicken souvlaki dinner — potatoes, rice, salad, and a dinner rol — for $12.70. But my greasy-spoon-loving heart belongs to the board special: a homemade hot hamburger and fries for $7.75. It’s a thick, grill-kissed patty on an open-faced bun, buried in gravy over a heap of fries. The gravy is classic rink-style — salty, beefy, made for cream soda — and the blocky fries, soft in the middle, soak it up perfectly. There’s no seating, so plan to eat in your car or, if the weather’s nice, walk 15 minutes south to McGregor Park’s picnic benches.
Where to get it: Kathy’s Grill is at 1158 Kennedy Ave. at Lawrence Avenue East. It is open Monday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.It is not on delivery apps.
Tianjin Dumplings’ Lamb HaggisNoodles
Taijin Dumplings.
Karon Liu/pc28StarI’d passed this small Scarborough spot on the Sheppard bus for years before finally hopping off last summer. It’s a no-frills northern Chinese joint with maybe 10 seats and a steady takeout flow, where nothing on the menu tops $12. Specialties include dumplings (steamed or pan-fried), scallion pancakes, stuffed flatbreads, and snack plates like smashed cucumber and shredded potato salad. A dozen pork, shrimp, and chive dumplings go for $10.99, but I’m hooked on the lamb haggis noodles — $10.99 for a bowl of chewy hand-pulled noodles in a peppery broth, loaded with cilantro, tripe, and sliced heart. The offal brings a bold, earthy flavour that stands up well to a heavy pour of chili oil.
If offal isn’t your thing, the restaurant has regular beef soup noodles, $11, as well cold sesame noodles, $8.
Where to get it:Tianjin Dumplings is at 4192 Sheppard Ave. E. at Midland Avenue. It is on Uber Eats, Hungry Panda and Fantuan. It is open every day except Wednesday 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
‘s Vegan Pho
The price of pho has steadily climbed to an average of $20 a bowl, which isn’t surprising considering all the ingredients and work that go into it. That being said, Vit Beo, a little counter service spot that’s owned by the same people behind the nearby Civil Liberties bar, offers a wallet-friendly (and vegan and gluten-free friendly) pho for a decent $15. The broth is made from a combination of roasted vegetables, kombu and aromatics like star anise to create the distinct pho aroma without having to use beef bones (the veggies give a slight vegetal sweet edge). On top, there’s a heap of fresh cilantro and Thai basil for the familiar anise base notes; baby bok choy for crunch; and thinly sliced king oyster mushrooms and fried tofu for heft.
Sure, you can get it to go, but pho is always best eaten immediately before the cooked vermicelli gets gloopy and fresh herbs lose their potency and crunch.
Where to get it: is at 858 Bloor St. W. at Ossington Avenue. It is open Friday to Sunday for lunch noon to 3:30 p.m. and Tuesday to Sunday for dinner 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. Takeout can be ordered . Washrooms are down a small flight of stairs.
Before you go, I have a few morerecommendations
•Why line-up for “New York-style” pizza when you cangrab a massive slice of this homegrown classic for just $5?
•Here are the best places to eat and drink in Torontoaccording to chef Monika Wahba, owner of Maha’s.
•Get fresh canoli and loaves of breadat this beloved Italian bakery on the Danforth.
•This pc28restaurantis keeping the “dying art” of Chinese barbecue alive.
•Back on campus?Here are four places to grab a bite between study breaks.
•Get a warm bowl of ajiaco at thischarming Colombian spot to cure to the winter blues.
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